http://www.nytimes.com/2008/12/13/world/africa/13mali.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1&ei=5070&emc=eta1
An interesting article in the NY Times about the American military presence in West Africa. We see the Marines in Nouakchott all the time, and according to the Times, they are here training West African nations to secure their borders against al-Qaeda. Necessary and unnecessary. Necessary because countries like Mauritania and Mali share thousands of miles of border in the middle of the Sahara desert with countries that house active and dangerous al-Qaeda cells. Yes, 12 military personel were brutally murdered in Mauritania in September, and al-Qaeda claimed responsibility. Yes, there have been several attacks since my service began, and some branch of al-Qaeda has claimed responsibility for all of them.
Then, there's the part of me that agrees with this Malian gentleman in the article. I have found Mauritania to follow a very peaceful, relatively accepting branch of Islam. Yes, I occasionally encounter people trying to save my soul by converting me. Yes, prothlesizing is illegal here. However, Americans are popular here, and al-Qaeda has a weak, if any, following with the general public. I understand Mauritania's strategic value and the need to secure it against extremists, but luckily, I believe that this is one job for the American military that is entirely do-able.
Anyway, read the article.
Friday, December 19, 2008
Thursday, November 6, 2008
Africa loves them some Obama!
The first call I got giving me the results of the Presidential election came at 4:13am on November 5. I was dead asleep when Mr. Ba, one of my former students, woke me up with "Obama won! Obama won! AHHH! Congratulations!" He studies English at the University of Nouakchott, and he and his friends stayed up to watch the results. The next day, I had a lot of people yelling "OBAMA!!!!!" as I walked thought my village. He is a black man, and he is now President of the United States. If you were looking for a more inspirational figure for African youth, you'd be hard- pressed to find it.
Africans love this man, and so do I. They're hoping for a lot of foreign aid and attention to Africa. I'm hoping he starts cleaning up at home first. At any rate, I could not be happier with the results, nor could the majority of West Africa. Obama! WOO HOO!
Africans love this man, and so do I. They're hoping for a lot of foreign aid and attention to Africa. I'm hoping he starts cleaning up at home first. At any rate, I could not be happier with the results, nor could the majority of West Africa. Obama! WOO HOO!
Saturday, October 4, 2008
THINK, America!
I would like to forewarn everyone that this blog post has NOTHING to do with West Africa. I feel compelled to write after hearing the BBC report on the Vice Presidential debate yesterday. They aired snips from the debate. In one particular part, they aired Biden and Palin debating on taxes cuts and the present state of the economy. Palin presented a point, and Biden buried her in his response. She then came back with "Now, I'm not gonna answer questions like you're used to. I'm not a Washington insider. I speak for the common people" and Middle America, blah blah. She then proceeded to say nothing using the simplest words possible. It is at this point that I became completely OUTRAGED.
What exactly is Sarah Palin saying? Is she implying that the American people are too stupid to understand politics, so she has to dumb it down for them? And why is a Vice Presidential candidate dumbing anything down at all? WHY, oh why, are we content to have our politicians say they "speak to us" when they talk down to us? Do we have no mental capacity? Do we doubt our own ability to THINK?
In 2000 and 2004, we elected a president that spoke to the "common man". Yes, Mr. C Student, Average Joe. Eight years later America is caught in two expensive, unending wars, our economy is in shambles, and we have lost many of our allies in the international sphere. In short, we're a mess. This is the President that spoke to Middle America. He dumbed things down in his election campaigns too, saying he spoke to people, when in reality, I believe he couldn't grapple with the issues in the first place.
Now we have Sarah Palin running as Vice President on the Republican ticket. She is also SPEAKING to the people. Fine. Why is it do desirable for her to water down politics? Is she dumbing things down for us, or for herself? Either, I believe, are dangerous. In lowering the bar of intelligence for the American people, she sells us short. We are human beings, blessed with critical thinking ability and rational thought. We should be able to use them. We should be pushed, be forced, be proud, to understand campaign issues that affect this country. We have the ability. Why not have someone, finally, demand that we use them?
If, in fact, Palin dumbed these issues down for herself, then that is even more dangerous. If McCain dies, she becomes the President. Unfortunately, Mrs. Palin, PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES is a job that requires intelligence. I don't want Middle America, one of the good ol' boys in office. I want the most qualified person possible to lead us. I want the best of the best, someone with great intellect and ability, a President who towers above everyone else. I'm sorry, but President of the United States is a job that demands all of these things. Can Sarah Palin deliver? I believe that the answer is a resounding NO.
So, in short, Sarah Palin, you do not speak to me. I am a middle class woman, like yourself, and in fact I am insulted and outraged that you dare even try to speak to me on that level, and I can only hope that the rest of your audience feels the same way. You speak to a country of with one of the best educational systems in the world, of highly intelligent people who THINK. Don't belittle them, or yourself.
What exactly is Sarah Palin saying? Is she implying that the American people are too stupid to understand politics, so she has to dumb it down for them? And why is a Vice Presidential candidate dumbing anything down at all? WHY, oh why, are we content to have our politicians say they "speak to us" when they talk down to us? Do we have no mental capacity? Do we doubt our own ability to THINK?
In 2000 and 2004, we elected a president that spoke to the "common man". Yes, Mr. C Student, Average Joe. Eight years later America is caught in two expensive, unending wars, our economy is in shambles, and we have lost many of our allies in the international sphere. In short, we're a mess. This is the President that spoke to Middle America. He dumbed things down in his election campaigns too, saying he spoke to people, when in reality, I believe he couldn't grapple with the issues in the first place.
Now we have Sarah Palin running as Vice President on the Republican ticket. She is also SPEAKING to the people. Fine. Why is it do desirable for her to water down politics? Is she dumbing things down for us, or for herself? Either, I believe, are dangerous. In lowering the bar of intelligence for the American people, she sells us short. We are human beings, blessed with critical thinking ability and rational thought. We should be able to use them. We should be pushed, be forced, be proud, to understand campaign issues that affect this country. We have the ability. Why not have someone, finally, demand that we use them?
If, in fact, Palin dumbed these issues down for herself, then that is even more dangerous. If McCain dies, she becomes the President. Unfortunately, Mrs. Palin, PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES is a job that requires intelligence. I don't want Middle America, one of the good ol' boys in office. I want the most qualified person possible to lead us. I want the best of the best, someone with great intellect and ability, a President who towers above everyone else. I'm sorry, but President of the United States is a job that demands all of these things. Can Sarah Palin deliver? I believe that the answer is a resounding NO.
So, in short, Sarah Palin, you do not speak to me. I am a middle class woman, like yourself, and in fact I am insulted and outraged that you dare even try to speak to me on that level, and I can only hope that the rest of your audience feels the same way. You speak to a country of with one of the best educational systems in the world, of highly intelligent people who THINK. Don't belittle them, or yourself.
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
How The Election Looks From Across the Ocean... And Desert
I was in Nouakchott the other day awaiting my lost bags from my flight from Casablanca. I had to stay at one of the Peace Corps hotels, and in typical bratty fashion, I immediately ran down to the front desk after I got there to demand that the receptionist give me the Action Channel on my television. He smiled and said "Of course, but only if you vote for Barack Obama!" Huh.
Africa has been going crazy over Barack Obama ever since he was even a thought for a Presidential candidate. It is not exactly very difficult to understand why. As the first African American to receive a presidential party nomination, he has inspired many people in the United States too. Africa is full of, well, Africans. Before Obama, your average West African living in a small village would be hard pressed to believe that black people even EXISTED in America. Now a black man is running for President of one of the most powerful nations in the world. In Obama, they see a highly intelligent black man who has worked hard and is now very famous, powerful, and will hopefully lead a country come November. I believe that this inspires them. Racism in Africa is still VERY pervasive. It is still assumed that, because I am white, that I am better educated than anyone here, more wealthy, and nearly possess magic powers. Black people view themselves as poorer than I am, less intelligent, and generally oppressed ("oppressed" is probably a fair statement). That Obama has gotten where he has reassures and gives hope. A black man running for President of the United States. Beautiful.
I believe that Obama's popularity in Mauritania goes far beyond his skin color. Remember, I live in the ISLAMIC REPUBLIC of Mauritania: a country comprised of 3 million Muslims, the majority of which are of Moorish descent and speak a derivative of the Arabic language. Even Moors, who are notorious racist against black people, are fully behind Barack Obama. Why? Because he is not George W Bush, nor does he come from the same political party. Yes, there are Mauritanians who support the war in Iraq, but your average Mauritanian sees the war as a deadly crusade against Muslims. They believe that Bush is ignorant of Islam and Arab culture, and that he would rather start big wars in this part of the world than build healthy relationships. Honestly, this is probably a fair point of view. America is popular, but George Bush is NOT. Mauritanians love America in spite of George Bush, and trust US voters to make a better decision for President in 2008. Although I have explained to many people here that John McCain is NOT George Bush, it falls on deaf ears. I have explained that he is more intelligent, more experienced, and breaks with the Bush Administration on a variety of issues. However, I am inevitably asked about his stance on the Iraq War. Which is... that he will keep US troops in Iraq and continue fighting. Regardless of every other difference, this similarity between Bush and McCain is enough to make his extremely unpopular here.
Ok, fine. I hear ever single conservative reading this blog saying "Who gives a &*%*) if an islamic Republic, a country full of future terrorists, supports our new President? Nuke the bastards!" Right.
Mauritania is unique. We are a Muslim country that has a total infatuation with the United States. Americans in this country are popular and beloved, and generally seen as doing good things for Mauritania and the rest of the world. Mauritania officially recognizes Israel, and is one of the few Arab countries in the world to do so. And, although victim of 2 minor terrorist attacks in 2007, has zero tollerance for al-Qaeda, who is very unpopular here (that being said, pockets of al-Qaeda do exist in some towns and villages). America needs to care because this is precisely the type of country that it wants on its side.
The moral of the story is this: the whole world is watching, America. They are trusting you to elect a President that will govern America well, but that will also steer America well in foreign policy and the global community, whether that be Obama or McCain. The world is becoming smaller, and we need a President that with skills in diplomacy, specifically skills that do not necessarily involve large scale, illegal, and unprovoked military invasions. The rest of the world is talking, so LISTEN.
As for Mauritania, the message is clear: "Go Obama! No one likes Republicans! And of right, please reinstate our foreign aid. Really guys, we're sorry about that whole coup thing." It will be interesting to see how/ if thought progresses when December 2008 arrives.
Africa has been going crazy over Barack Obama ever since he was even a thought for a Presidential candidate. It is not exactly very difficult to understand why. As the first African American to receive a presidential party nomination, he has inspired many people in the United States too. Africa is full of, well, Africans. Before Obama, your average West African living in a small village would be hard pressed to believe that black people even EXISTED in America. Now a black man is running for President of one of the most powerful nations in the world. In Obama, they see a highly intelligent black man who has worked hard and is now very famous, powerful, and will hopefully lead a country come November. I believe that this inspires them. Racism in Africa is still VERY pervasive. It is still assumed that, because I am white, that I am better educated than anyone here, more wealthy, and nearly possess magic powers. Black people view themselves as poorer than I am, less intelligent, and generally oppressed ("oppressed" is probably a fair statement). That Obama has gotten where he has reassures and gives hope. A black man running for President of the United States. Beautiful.
I believe that Obama's popularity in Mauritania goes far beyond his skin color. Remember, I live in the ISLAMIC REPUBLIC of Mauritania: a country comprised of 3 million Muslims, the majority of which are of Moorish descent and speak a derivative of the Arabic language. Even Moors, who are notorious racist against black people, are fully behind Barack Obama. Why? Because he is not George W Bush, nor does he come from the same political party. Yes, there are Mauritanians who support the war in Iraq, but your average Mauritanian sees the war as a deadly crusade against Muslims. They believe that Bush is ignorant of Islam and Arab culture, and that he would rather start big wars in this part of the world than build healthy relationships. Honestly, this is probably a fair point of view. America is popular, but George Bush is NOT. Mauritanians love America in spite of George Bush, and trust US voters to make a better decision for President in 2008. Although I have explained to many people here that John McCain is NOT George Bush, it falls on deaf ears. I have explained that he is more intelligent, more experienced, and breaks with the Bush Administration on a variety of issues. However, I am inevitably asked about his stance on the Iraq War. Which is... that he will keep US troops in Iraq and continue fighting. Regardless of every other difference, this similarity between Bush and McCain is enough to make his extremely unpopular here.
Ok, fine. I hear ever single conservative reading this blog saying "Who gives a &*%*) if an islamic Republic, a country full of future terrorists, supports our new President? Nuke the bastards!" Right.
Mauritania is unique. We are a Muslim country that has a total infatuation with the United States. Americans in this country are popular and beloved, and generally seen as doing good things for Mauritania and the rest of the world. Mauritania officially recognizes Israel, and is one of the few Arab countries in the world to do so. And, although victim of 2 minor terrorist attacks in 2007, has zero tollerance for al-Qaeda, who is very unpopular here (that being said, pockets of al-Qaeda do exist in some towns and villages). America needs to care because this is precisely the type of country that it wants on its side.
The moral of the story is this: the whole world is watching, America. They are trusting you to elect a President that will govern America well, but that will also steer America well in foreign policy and the global community, whether that be Obama or McCain. The world is becoming smaller, and we need a President that with skills in diplomacy, specifically skills that do not necessarily involve large scale, illegal, and unprovoked military invasions. The rest of the world is talking, so LISTEN.
As for Mauritania, the message is clear: "Go Obama! No one likes Republicans! And of right, please reinstate our foreign aid. Really guys, we're sorry about that whole coup thing." It will be interesting to see how/ if thought progresses when December 2008 arrives.
Sunday, August 17, 2008
Dear God, What AM I Doing With My Life?
Ok, I joined Peace Corps for a number of reasons. Honestly, "saving the world" and all of that happy... poop ranked pretty low on the list of reasons why I would possibly come to a place like Mauritania for 2 years. One of those reasons was certainly the prospect of career advancement. Now I'm more than a year through, and I am starting to realize that life after this will exist (unless I die first of a combination of malnutrition and boredom) and that I should start preparing for it.
Ok great, so what do I do? A huge part of me says "TEACH", but in the back of my mind I am worried that I will sell myself short by teaching. Teaching is GREAT, but is that what I always wanted to be? Is that what will make me happy? I thought about nursing... but really, 3 more years of school? Oh, and my Dad wants me to apply to work for a number of shady governmental organizations. Great, but um, really? I have no idea, and I need to make a decision. And really, what do I have to work with? I have 2 years of teaching/ international experience in one of the poorest, roughest countries in the world. I speak 2 foreign languages well. I can yell at taxi brousse drivers like a champ. But really, I was a philosphy major in college. What, exactly, am I qualified to do? And what can I do? Part of me says that I have been (filthily) coasting for 2 years, and now it's time to crack down and be miserable like everyone else. And part of me says that there's more to life than this. If I nurse or teach, I will do so abroad. Preferably in the North or West Africa. I like health. I like teaching. I like Africa. This would make me happy. But what do I do about money? I'm a spoiled middle class brat, and I would like to continue to be... not totally poor. HOW do I do that?
I thought that coming to this part of the world would make me more relaxed and more able to take things as they come. WRONG. I need a plan. I have none. Well, that's not true. I AM planning on buying a fantastic pair of high heels and aty least 4 bottles of wine tomorrow while I am still on vacation. But no long term plan, certainly not involving high heels, wine, and food.
Ideas anyone? What SHOULD I be considering. Unacceptable answers include: stripping, working in food service ( I would weigh at least 800 lbs), and caring for small screaming children. Perfectly acceptable answers include marrying Ben Roethlisberger and/ or any member of the Pittsburgh Steelers, and I will even branch out to include general members of Pittsburgh sports teams.
Ok great, so what do I do? A huge part of me says "TEACH", but in the back of my mind I am worried that I will sell myself short by teaching. Teaching is GREAT, but is that what I always wanted to be? Is that what will make me happy? I thought about nursing... but really, 3 more years of school? Oh, and my Dad wants me to apply to work for a number of shady governmental organizations. Great, but um, really? I have no idea, and I need to make a decision. And really, what do I have to work with? I have 2 years of teaching/ international experience in one of the poorest, roughest countries in the world. I speak 2 foreign languages well. I can yell at taxi brousse drivers like a champ. But really, I was a philosphy major in college. What, exactly, am I qualified to do? And what can I do? Part of me says that I have been (filthily) coasting for 2 years, and now it's time to crack down and be miserable like everyone else. And part of me says that there's more to life than this. If I nurse or teach, I will do so abroad. Preferably in the North or West Africa. I like health. I like teaching. I like Africa. This would make me happy. But what do I do about money? I'm a spoiled middle class brat, and I would like to continue to be... not totally poor. HOW do I do that?
I thought that coming to this part of the world would make me more relaxed and more able to take things as they come. WRONG. I need a plan. I have none. Well, that's not true. I AM planning on buying a fantastic pair of high heels and aty least 4 bottles of wine tomorrow while I am still on vacation. But no long term plan, certainly not involving high heels, wine, and food.
Ideas anyone? What SHOULD I be considering. Unacceptable answers include: stripping, working in food service ( I would weigh at least 800 lbs), and caring for small screaming children. Perfectly acceptable answers include marrying Ben Roethlisberger and/ or any member of the Pittsburgh Steelers, and I will even branch out to include general members of Pittsburgh sports teams.
Monday, July 28, 2008
One Year Later
Actually it's been 13 months, but who's counting? Certainly not every volunteer in- country. I think it's only natural that half way into an experience like this, you look back and see what you have and have not accomplished. Also, you ask yourself, is all this really worth it? I mean, for the past year I have been violently ill, filthy, uncomfortable, and that's only maybe a third of it. With life here as hard as it is sometimes, why am I still here? Do I stay?
The answer is a resounding "YES". As crazy as this whole thing has been, look at it from an objective standpoint. What did I do this year? I was employed as an English teacher in a Mauritanian public school. I had 360 students that both drove me completely crazy, but in general, I really enjoyed. I taught my students a language that they might not ever use, but it provided a nice distraction, and at least now they understand their favorite rap songs better. Also now they know that "Hey Teacher! What's up, b%#$&?" is NOT a standard greeting in America. When school ended, we painted a huge, Andy Warhol- style world map on one of my school's outside walls and next year they other teachers and the tutrices can use it for lessons.
Apart from doing my actual job here, I have reached other... milestones. I spent New Years on a beach in Senegal, learned 2 languages (it would be a reeaaaallll stretch to say that I spoke French before I got here), and am now learning Arabic (HA!). I learned how to wear a complete, grand boubou, wrap a fulaar (head scarf) like a champion, and cook Pulaar beans. I also learned how to carry heavy things on my head, how to tell the difference between a scorpion and a scorpion horse, and how to offend someone in 3 of the 4 local languages in Lexeiba. Yes, it's really hot. Yes, I have had more than my share of intestinal diseases, and in fact may have to sprint back to the house after I finish typing this. Fine, I am covered in sun spots and my skin has aged probably 5 years in the last 1. And ok, I am dirty and look bad nearly every day that I am here. Oh, and my clothes haven't even come close to matching since Staging in Philadelphia. That being said, it's been real. I know what a sunset over the Sahara Desert looks like. I know that a camel toe is actually really gross looking. And, being in West Africa has afforded me some really killer travel opportunities. I spent the first part of July in Mali, seeing Bamako and Dogon Country, one of the most beautiful places on the planet.
So, in short, it has been worth it. As much as we complain and yell at annoying Mauritanian children and sweat and get even dirtier. As if that were humanly possible.
The answer is a resounding "YES". As crazy as this whole thing has been, look at it from an objective standpoint. What did I do this year? I was employed as an English teacher in a Mauritanian public school. I had 360 students that both drove me completely crazy, but in general, I really enjoyed. I taught my students a language that they might not ever use, but it provided a nice distraction, and at least now they understand their favorite rap songs better. Also now they know that "Hey Teacher! What's up, b%#$&?" is NOT a standard greeting in America. When school ended, we painted a huge, Andy Warhol- style world map on one of my school's outside walls and next year they other teachers and the tutrices can use it for lessons.
Apart from doing my actual job here, I have reached other... milestones. I spent New Years on a beach in Senegal, learned 2 languages (it would be a reeaaaallll stretch to say that I spoke French before I got here), and am now learning Arabic (HA!). I learned how to wear a complete, grand boubou, wrap a fulaar (head scarf) like a champion, and cook Pulaar beans. I also learned how to carry heavy things on my head, how to tell the difference between a scorpion and a scorpion horse, and how to offend someone in 3 of the 4 local languages in Lexeiba. Yes, it's really hot. Yes, I have had more than my share of intestinal diseases, and in fact may have to sprint back to the house after I finish typing this. Fine, I am covered in sun spots and my skin has aged probably 5 years in the last 1. And ok, I am dirty and look bad nearly every day that I am here. Oh, and my clothes haven't even come close to matching since Staging in Philadelphia. That being said, it's been real. I know what a sunset over the Sahara Desert looks like. I know that a camel toe is actually really gross looking. And, being in West Africa has afforded me some really killer travel opportunities. I spent the first part of July in Mali, seeing Bamako and Dogon Country, one of the most beautiful places on the planet.
So, in short, it has been worth it. As much as we complain and yell at annoying Mauritanian children and sweat and get even dirtier. As if that were humanly possible.
Friday, April 4, 2008
Another Annoying Series of Thoughts About Body Image
No, but really. Body image was not something that I thought about for 9 months until I went on vacation back home for a week. Then it was on OVERLOAD. This is coming from someone who, until her senior year of college, could have always stood to lose just 5 more pounds. I started dieting when I was 6 years old because I was a genuinely fat kid, and did not stop until I turned 21. I went from fat to thin to fat to thin, some days binge eating and some days forcing myself into 500 calorie/ day diets. It sucked. All of it. Finally I wized up and stopped. I started running, and afterwards I ate a lot of whatever I felt that my body NEEDED. It was with that mind set that I went into my experience here in the Islamique Republique de Mauritanie.
When I first got here, I lost about 10 lbs almost immdiately. Chalk that up to 120 degree days and malnutrition. You average Mauritanian gets almost no protein in their daily diet, and I am sure that a lot of that was lost muscle mass. Even so, I cannot lie and say I was not thrilled. I have gained muscle back since (being able to cook and buy your own food after Stage ROCKS. Hang in there, Future Stagieres, it gets better!), and maybe a few pounds. That being said, since coming here, I almost never think about my body image, except for how to keep it healthy. I relish in peanuts and tuna, and I will not think twice about downing a double cheeseburger in Nouackchott. I also find that Pulaars have a very healthy attitude towards weight. Get too fat and you can't work, and get too thin and you start to become malnourished and too thin to work. Who needs that? Pulaars prefer their women on the meatier side, but unlike Moors, do not force- feed themselves or avoid all physical activities to KEEP weight on. People think it's great that I run everday because it's good for your body, not because it makes you look a certain way(it's pretty cool to have cars full of men cheer you on from the road while you run). And I find that my habits fall along that general trend. Do what's good for your body... that's all you can or should do.
The Body Wars were my biggest culture shock coming home. Every article in ever magazine talked about a celebrity who lost 20 lbs or how YOU TOO can lose weight, or something along those lines. Half of the people I saw at home were on diets and I couldn't believe it. People in Africa are malnourished and starving, and you are deliberately depricing your body of something? You, who have access of every nutrient you could ever want? And of course, there was obesity. Aside from the hugely fat Moor women, obesity like that just does not exist here. It's clear why it does not, but still, it took some getting used to. After 3 hours at home, I started gaining weight. I mean, I can't imagine why! It had NOTHING to do with the 7 plates of chicken I ate at that lunch buffet while I was stranded in a hotel in DC, and certainly nothing to do with the fact that I out cheese on everything, or that I drank a bottle of wine a day. Can you blame me? I hadn't seen such large quantities of chicken, wine, or cheese in 9 months. Still, I looked at all of the jazzercized, skinny women around me, the articles in newspapers and magazines, and felt disgusting. HOW is that possible? Did I get brainwashed in Mauritania, or did it happen coming home?
The point of my long ramblings is this: we, in the West, need to wake up and smell the sugar- free fat- free coffee. If you want to look your best, exercise and take care of yourself. Do NOT go on a sugar- free diet unless you happen to be diabetic. That's ridiculous. Do NOT cut an entire food group out of your diet. Why would someone do that? Why would you make yourself and your body so unhappy on purpose? Mauritanians have no choice. They usually split 2 fish between 10 adults everyday for lunch, and that's the extent of their protein consumption. Food is expensive here and nearly all imported, except for rice... which lacks nutritional value. Seriously people, get over it. I can't see you, but I'm sure that if you are exercising and eating a balanced diet, you feel great, and I would venture a guess that you really do look great too. I'm glad to be back in my Mauritania bubble and not have to deal with all that pressure for another year. That gives me time to practice serenity or chanting or whatever. So that when I do come home, and some moron in a size 2 tells me that she's "off sugar", I don't hall off and slap her right then and there.
When I first got here, I lost about 10 lbs almost immdiately. Chalk that up to 120 degree days and malnutrition. You average Mauritanian gets almost no protein in their daily diet, and I am sure that a lot of that was lost muscle mass. Even so, I cannot lie and say I was not thrilled. I have gained muscle back since (being able to cook and buy your own food after Stage ROCKS. Hang in there, Future Stagieres, it gets better!), and maybe a few pounds. That being said, since coming here, I almost never think about my body image, except for how to keep it healthy. I relish in peanuts and tuna, and I will not think twice about downing a double cheeseburger in Nouackchott. I also find that Pulaars have a very healthy attitude towards weight. Get too fat and you can't work, and get too thin and you start to become malnourished and too thin to work. Who needs that? Pulaars prefer their women on the meatier side, but unlike Moors, do not force- feed themselves or avoid all physical activities to KEEP weight on. People think it's great that I run everday because it's good for your body, not because it makes you look a certain way(it's pretty cool to have cars full of men cheer you on from the road while you run). And I find that my habits fall along that general trend. Do what's good for your body... that's all you can or should do.
The Body Wars were my biggest culture shock coming home. Every article in ever magazine talked about a celebrity who lost 20 lbs or how YOU TOO can lose weight, or something along those lines. Half of the people I saw at home were on diets and I couldn't believe it. People in Africa are malnourished and starving, and you are deliberately depricing your body of something? You, who have access of every nutrient you could ever want? And of course, there was obesity. Aside from the hugely fat Moor women, obesity like that just does not exist here. It's clear why it does not, but still, it took some getting used to. After 3 hours at home, I started gaining weight. I mean, I can't imagine why! It had NOTHING to do with the 7 plates of chicken I ate at that lunch buffet while I was stranded in a hotel in DC, and certainly nothing to do with the fact that I out cheese on everything, or that I drank a bottle of wine a day. Can you blame me? I hadn't seen such large quantities of chicken, wine, or cheese in 9 months. Still, I looked at all of the jazzercized, skinny women around me, the articles in newspapers and magazines, and felt disgusting. HOW is that possible? Did I get brainwashed in Mauritania, or did it happen coming home?
The point of my long ramblings is this: we, in the West, need to wake up and smell the sugar- free fat- free coffee. If you want to look your best, exercise and take care of yourself. Do NOT go on a sugar- free diet unless you happen to be diabetic. That's ridiculous. Do NOT cut an entire food group out of your diet. Why would someone do that? Why would you make yourself and your body so unhappy on purpose? Mauritanians have no choice. They usually split 2 fish between 10 adults everyday for lunch, and that's the extent of their protein consumption. Food is expensive here and nearly all imported, except for rice... which lacks nutritional value. Seriously people, get over it. I can't see you, but I'm sure that if you are exercising and eating a balanced diet, you feel great, and I would venture a guess that you really do look great too. I'm glad to be back in my Mauritania bubble and not have to deal with all that pressure for another year. That gives me time to practice serenity or chanting or whatever. So that when I do come home, and some moron in a size 2 tells me that she's "off sugar", I don't hall off and slap her right then and there.
Friday, February 1, 2008
Where exactly do I live????
This is a question I've been asking myself since Thanksgiving. Sure, the obvious answer is MAURITANIA, but I'm starting to realize that although I technically live within Mauritanian borders, I do not actually live in Mauritania as most people think of it.
Mauritania is derived from the word "moor", which is the dominant ethnic group here. The country is largely White and Black Moor (after Black Moor ceased to be slaves, the adopted Moor culture as their own). However, in the Southern part of the country along the Senegal River, there are two entirely different ethnic groups, the Pulaars and the Soninkes. I live with the Pulaars in Southern Mauritania, about 20 miles from Senegal.
Mauritania, as it stands, is a colonial cartographer's dream. The Moors and the Pulaars, the two most dominant groups, have nothing in common except for the fact that they are Muslim. Moors speak Hassaniya, a dialect of Arabic, practice a strict brand of Islam, and until about 30 years ago, were Nomads living out of tents with herds of camels. Pulaars live all throughout West Africa. They speak Pulaar, or Fulani, practice a more relaxed branch of Islam, and are sedentary. Basically these two groups have nothing in common. When Mauritania got its independence from France, a logical natural boundary was the Senegal River. However, culturally, that was a really stupid move. They probably should have drawn the border line about 50 miles north of the river, since the essentially cut the Pulaar community down the middle. Most Pulaars on the river have fields, families, and/ or houses in Senegal. All they do is cross the river to get there (international boundaries don't mean too much here....)
I'm writing this long boring post for a reason, I promise. Since I live with the Pulaars in Mauritania, I essentially live with a small minority population. Many of them live in Mauritania, but do not consider themselves to be really Mauritanian. Considering that racism is terrible here and they are often discriminated against by the Moors, I don't blame them. (To be fair, the Pulaars aren't so nice when talking about Moors either). In 1989, the Mauritanian government went on a Black Rampage, expelling huge amounts of Pulaars to Senegal and shooting many that didn't get out. My host Dad lost his father in all the violence. A lot of people won't talk about it, but I get the feeling that "genocide" probably applies. Even now, things aren't so friendly between the two communities. In class one day, a White Moor girl smacked a Pulaar girl because she took her seat. After she hit her, she said "look, now you made my hand dirty". I also had a kid in class one day tell me that he hated Akon (who's huge here) because he is black. Yep, it's pretty bad.
So, the moral of my story is this: I cannot respond to a question about what Mauritania is like, because I really don't know. I don't live there. I don't live in the SAHARA DESERT. There are trees and grass (albeit dead grass right now). I live in a house, not a khaima, and I do not speak a word of Arabic or Hassaniya, nor can I read it. I almost never cover my head, go running everyday in pants, and I'm allowed to touch and flirt with men (THANK GOD for that). And, when Dave came to Lexeiba for a few days, no one thought it was weird or told me to marry him. Living with Pulaars is an experience all in itself.
Mauritania is derived from the word "moor", which is the dominant ethnic group here. The country is largely White and Black Moor (after Black Moor ceased to be slaves, the adopted Moor culture as their own). However, in the Southern part of the country along the Senegal River, there are two entirely different ethnic groups, the Pulaars and the Soninkes. I live with the Pulaars in Southern Mauritania, about 20 miles from Senegal.
Mauritania, as it stands, is a colonial cartographer's dream. The Moors and the Pulaars, the two most dominant groups, have nothing in common except for the fact that they are Muslim. Moors speak Hassaniya, a dialect of Arabic, practice a strict brand of Islam, and until about 30 years ago, were Nomads living out of tents with herds of camels. Pulaars live all throughout West Africa. They speak Pulaar, or Fulani, practice a more relaxed branch of Islam, and are sedentary. Basically these two groups have nothing in common. When Mauritania got its independence from France, a logical natural boundary was the Senegal River. However, culturally, that was a really stupid move. They probably should have drawn the border line about 50 miles north of the river, since the essentially cut the Pulaar community down the middle. Most Pulaars on the river have fields, families, and/ or houses in Senegal. All they do is cross the river to get there (international boundaries don't mean too much here....)
I'm writing this long boring post for a reason, I promise. Since I live with the Pulaars in Mauritania, I essentially live with a small minority population. Many of them live in Mauritania, but do not consider themselves to be really Mauritanian. Considering that racism is terrible here and they are often discriminated against by the Moors, I don't blame them. (To be fair, the Pulaars aren't so nice when talking about Moors either). In 1989, the Mauritanian government went on a Black Rampage, expelling huge amounts of Pulaars to Senegal and shooting many that didn't get out. My host Dad lost his father in all the violence. A lot of people won't talk about it, but I get the feeling that "genocide" probably applies. Even now, things aren't so friendly between the two communities. In class one day, a White Moor girl smacked a Pulaar girl because she took her seat. After she hit her, she said "look, now you made my hand dirty". I also had a kid in class one day tell me that he hated Akon (who's huge here) because he is black. Yep, it's pretty bad.
So, the moral of my story is this: I cannot respond to a question about what Mauritania is like, because I really don't know. I don't live there. I don't live in the SAHARA DESERT. There are trees and grass (albeit dead grass right now). I live in a house, not a khaima, and I do not speak a word of Arabic or Hassaniya, nor can I read it. I almost never cover my head, go running everyday in pants, and I'm allowed to touch and flirt with men (THANK GOD for that). And, when Dave came to Lexeiba for a few days, no one thought it was weird or told me to marry him. Living with Pulaars is an experience all in itself.
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